To produce healthy, flowering amaryllis, water plant sparingly until the leaves and flower begin to emerge from the bulb. After the flower bud has appeared, fertilize and increase water.
In frost-free climates, amaryllis are grown in the open field or in beds and borders around the home. They are excellent landscape subjects for use as individual specimens, in mass plantings, in beds, or as part of the border planting around home grounds and in park plantings. They are easily grown indoors.
In the fall, as the foliage matures, water should be gradually withheld and the pots lifted in cool weather before frost and placed in a cool cellar to “ripen” (allow the foliage to die off) until around the first of the year. Around Christmas or later, the bulbs should be checked for bloom buds showing, or possible injury, and all old foliage and loose dried scales cleaned off.
To water a bulb too much after the growth starts may cause it to rot. A newly potted, dormant amaryllis should be kept fairly dry until signs of life begin to show, except for an initial watering to settle the soil around the bottom of the bulb. It should be watered sparingly by syringing the bulb itself until you are sure there are roots growing.
Once the leaf tip emerges from the center of the bulb, and after the bloom stem has cleared the scales, it is definite that roots are feeding the bulb and it is time to apply more water to the soil regularly, keeping it moist but not soggy.
However, to start the foliage into full growth before the bloom and bud appear may cause the bud to rot or abort and there can be a healthy set of leaves growing and no evidence of a bloom coming. It is wise not to water the bulb until the bloom bud shows, regardless of how promising the foliage looks.
Full chrysanthemum: Anemone x. fulgens, the scarlet windflower, resembles a scarlet daisy having a black center. It can be forced like A. coronaria, the poppy-flowered anemone, has large flowers in red, white and indigo. Popular controlled varieties with single blooms include DeCaen, St. Brigid and Victoria Giant. Many double forms are also to be had in a variety of colors, although the scarlet ones are predominant. One cultivar known as Anemone coronaria cv. `Chrysanthemiflora’ is a seedling produced in 1848, looking much like a full chrysanthemum; Anemone x fulgens, the scarlet windflower, resembles a scarlet daisy having a black center. It can be forced like A. coronaria.
Full sunlight is best fat sturdiness, and a temperature between 55 60F. (12.78 and 15.56C.) is best. Tie bloom stem loosely to a stake to prevent is being broken. The blooms can be cut and us as cut flowers.
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